Everything Random

My son is in Bangkok for the summer school break and since the last time we did a staycation at Bang Kachow, I promised that we will bring him there. Too bad, we only got a night at Coconut Lane (the place that I love and I wrote about a year ago here). So we explored what could be our options for the next three nights.

Then I chanced up Baan Krai Nao, a newly renovated property that also features the Michelin-listed Phuket resto – Toh Daeng. We did not regret the choice, as the place was just lovely. My wife and kids regretted the fact that we did not stay longer.

The Property

Baan Krai Nao is a small, intimate riverfront property – only seven rooms – and this smallness is actually its biggest charm. There is no grand lobby or ostentatious entrance. What you get instead is a garden, a pool, and a wooden pier that stretches out toward the Chao Phraya River. It is the kind of space that just makes you want to sit and do nothing. The greenery is well-kept, the whole property feels unhurried, and you can hear the river even from your room. That is something you do not get very often this close to a city of ten million people.

The design does not try too hard, and I appreciate that. It leans into its natural surroundings rather than fighting against them. Wood, open spaces, a terrace that looks out at the water.

The Rooms

We booked two rooms that are generously sized. The room is individually decorated – which is a good sign – and has all the basics done well: comfortable bed, good linens, a 43-inch TV, air conditioning that actually works, and free Wi-Fi that holds up. It feel less like a hotel and more like a small apartment by the river.

The view from the room is of the resort itself – not directly the river, but the garden and the surrounding greenery, and that is still very pleasant. The rooms are clean and well-maintained. Nothing feels neglected.

We liked that there is a day bed inside that fronts the river. We also love that at sunset, when the temperature becomes bearable, you can sit on the veranda and read the book. This is a place that’s really thought out well. The only thing that makes my wife uncomfortable is the open-space concept of the toilet and bath – it does not look “secure” enough.

The Restaurant

Toh Daeng, which means “Red Table,” is the restaurant inside the property. It is a branch of the Michelin-listed Toh Daeng at Baan Ar Jor in Phuket, and the pedigree shows. The setting here takes advantage of the location – outdoor seating with cheerful red and white awnings, right by the river. You eat with the Chao Phraya in front of you, a breeze coming off the water, and the noise of the city feeling very far away.

The food is Southern Thai and Phuket-style – and it is genuinely good. They use fresh, locally sourced ingredients, and the dishes are made with care. The Thai curries are rich and aromatic without being heavy-handed. The produce tastes like it came from somewhere, not from a central supply depot. There is a family-recipe quality to the cooking here – not in the homespun, imprecise way, but in the way that tells you someone actually cares about how each dish is supposed to taste.

The service throughout the restaurant is warm and attentive. You feel like a guest, not a transaction.

________

Recommended? Yes, without hesitation. Will I come back? Definitely – even for just the food.

If you are looking for a proper city escape that does not require a flight, or even a long drive, Baan Krai Nao is one of the better answers I have found. The property is quiet, the rooms are comfortable, and Toh Daeng is the kind of restaurant that makes the whole trip worthwhile on its own.